Are there any other ways of improving your hair loss situation without medical intervention or cosmetic products? In this series, we will look into two methods that fall into this category: microneedling and low-level laser therapy (LLLT). But what does the science say, and how does this match the genetic and DHT discussion we previously highlighted? Let’s dive into this article regarding microneedling.
What Is It?
Microneedling (also known as dermarolling/dermastamping) has emerged as one of the most effective at-home treatments for hair loss. The therapy utilizes hundreds of medical-grade needles to create micropunctures in the skin of the scalp, either through mechanical force or automated derma pens.
Microneedling as a therapy is far from new. In a study from 1995, microneedling was first discussed regarding the possibility of reducing wrinkles and scars - a therapy that is still widely practiced today. By 2013, the first pilot study was conducted on microneedling as a treatment for androgenic alopecia (AGA). The study yielded promising results, and many studies have been conducted on the therapy since.
How Does It Work?
Microneedling works by creating thousands of controlled “micro-injuries” in the scalp using tiny medical-grade needles. This process triggers hair growth through two primary mechanisms:
1. Growth Factor Release (Wound Healing Response)
The healing process activates the body’s natural repair mechanisms, stimulating stem cells in the hair follicle and pushing “dormant” hairs back into the active growth phase (anagen).
This healing response promotes anagen-initiating Wnt/β-catenin signaling and improves dermal papilla stem cell proliferation. This means microneedling has the potential for therapeutic effects in a variety of hair loss disorders.
2. Supercharged Absorption
The tiny channels act as “highways” into the skin. This allows greater absorption of topical treatments through the microchannels in the epidermis. As a result, active ingredients can reach the hair follicle much more effectively than if they were simply applied to the surface of the scalp.
What Type of Device Is Best?
There are three main categories when it comes to microneedling: derma stamps, derma rollers, and electric dermapens. All of the devices differ slightly, but in our opinion, derma rollers and automatic pens have the clearest downsides.
The rolling motion of the derma roller results in angular penetration of the scalp, which creates larger microwounds compared to the straight penetration of the derma stamp and automatic pens. Angular penetration is far from ideal, especially when considering long-term viability and minimizing potential damage.
The angular motion also creates greater variation in applied pressure. A 0.5 mm derma roller typically penetrates the scalp at only about 0.3 mm due to these issues. Another problem with derma rollers is that they tend to get stuck in existing hair, which can cause unnecessary hair breakage and even hair being pulled from the scalp - not pleasant and not ideal.
The automatic pen is essentially a more expensive version of the derma stamp. It is often unnecessary and offers less control of movement. Cheaper pens (in the €100–300 range) rarely produce enough power and frequency to be used in motions other than straight up-and-down stamping. If you drag them across the scalp, you will likely see visible needle-drag patterns - and we do not want that. We do not want to induce scarring.
Unless you are buying higher-tier models (€800+), you are essentially paying significantly more than a derma stamp for similar efficacy.
Derma stamps offer full control, close to 100% needle-length-to-penetration accuracy, no tangling in hair, and they are the cheapest option of the three. (No brainer - you’re welcome.)
What Depth Should I Microneedle At?
The layers of the scalp consist of:
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Epidermis (about 0.3–0.4 mm thick): minimal blood supply, functions mainly as an outer protective shield.
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Dermis (about 0.3/0.4–1.5/2.5 mm thick): at this layer you will see swelling and pinpoint bleeding depending on the depth of penetration.
When discussing the potential effects of microneedling, depth is crucial.
If you’re using a 0.5 mm dermaroller, you are probably (at most) scratching the outer surface of the dermis. This may not fully trigger a wound-healing response, but you will get increased absorption of any topical products you’re using.
Our recommendation is to aim for a wound-healing response to maximize therapeutic effects while keeping the treatment safe and viable long term. A 0.5 mm derma stamp offers close to 0.5 mm true penetration - a long-term safe depth that can trigger wound healing responses while also maximizing topical absorption. Worth noticing is that deeper penetration than 0.6-0.7 mm has repeatedly shown worse outcomes than true penetration depths of 0.5-0.6 mm.
What Results Should I Expect?
This depends on whether you are using the derma stamp as a monotherapy or as part of a regimen (for example, combined with a serum or minoxidil).
Patience is essential. Hair growth cycles are naturally slow, and you should expect to wait at least 3 to 6 months before seeing visible changes.
Key Findings
In a 2024 study comparing different microneedling depths used bi-weekly as monotherapy, the 0.5 mm group saw the best results - approximately a 67% mean increase in hair count, which also translated into noticeable visual improvement. This finding aligns with other recent studies suggesting that around 0.5 mm may be the most effective depth.
Microneedling has also shown comparable efficacy to PRP therapy, which is significantly more expensive.
Studies comparing minoxidil alone versus minoxidil combined with microneedling have shown significantly better results in the combination group (40% mean hair count increase vs. 8.5% with minoxidil alone).
Be Aware
To ensure safety and avoid permanent damage, keep these critical safety tips in mind:
Wait 24 Hours Before Minoxidil
If you use needles 0.5 mm or deeper, wait 24 hours before applying minoxidil. This reduces systemic absorption and avoids applying an alcohol-based solution to freshly treated skin, which can cause irritation.
Never “Drag” the Device
Do not slide or drag the device across your scalp while the needles are inserted. This causes micro-tearing and can lead to track-mark scarring. Always lift the device completely before changing direction. (The same applies to cheaper automatic pens.)
Strict Hygiene
Always sterilize your tool in 70% isopropyl alcohol before and after every use. A scalp infection can lead to permanent, irreversible hair loss.
Don’t Go Too Deep
A common myth is that more blood equals more growth. This is false and potentially dangerous.
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Stem Cell Damage: If you go too deep (1.5+ mm), you risk damaging the stem cells in the follicle’s bulge area - the very cells you are trying to stimulate.
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Fibrosis (Scarring): Repeated deep treatments can cause microscopic scar tissue buildup. Over time, this fibrosis can make the scalp too rigid for healthy hair growth, potentially making hair loss permanent.
(If you have gone too deep previously, don’t panic - but discontinue that approach.)
So don’t go too deep and don’t do it too often.
0.5 mm is sufficient, and once per week is enough.
There is no need to spend money on expensive automatic pens.
And lastly - although there are exciting findings in trials, you should not expect dramatic increases like some highlighted in key studies. The best controlled studies show more consistent, replicable results of around a 15% total hair count increase, with a response rate of approximately 70–80%.
Nevertheless, there is promising evidence that microneedling has potential both as a monotherapy and in conjunction with topical treatments to support hair regrowth. As always, manage your expectations.
Conclusion
Microneedling is a promising therapy for your anti hair loss protocol and even as a mono therapy. If you have learned something and want a derma stamp, we sell one specifically developed with these studies in mind. Have a look!